Dorothy Draper, Off the Collar.

The Draper Necklace at Mizrahi's F/W 2011
show.  I'm also smitten with the dyed to match
pooch.  No need to dig out the lint roller!

I eagerly anticipated the departure of Isaac Mizrahi from the realm of Target.  He was far too good for the likes of mass marketing.  True, it gave him the opportunity to dress a broad spectrum of women and give style to any income bracket, but it was heartbreaking to see a wonderful design executed in a lack luster fashion via poor craftsmanship and sleazy fabric.

Since departing the land of the red bulls eye, Isaac has returned stronger than ever over the past few seasons with incredible designs that are undeniably fresh, making the traumatic plug pulling by parent company Chanel so many years ago seem like a case of drastic short sighted decision making.  Case in point his witty, irreverent, and inspired homage to decorator Dorothy Draper, rendered in white enamel and rhodium. 

Part of his Fall 2011 collection, the Baroque collar (which also has matching earrings that I haven't found yet but they can be seen on the last photo of this entry), provides a graphic and delicate foil to his bold swaths of exuberant intense color, a Mizrahi signature, and his sculptural and voluminous silhouettes of the season.  

The Draper Necklace is available at Saks
and http://www.saks.com/ for $880.00.

The Draper necklace, as it is called, looks to be inspired by Drapers work in the 1940's for the Palace Quitandinha, in Brazil.  At least it does to me.  The dangling shell, the central lattice cartouche, and the scrolling volutes all appear in her designs executed in white plaster and wrought iron and carved stone throughout the resort.  The necklace is also done in bright white, another Draper hallmark. 

These calling cards are not found solely in her work in Brazil; Drapers penchant for the Baroque and her desire to render everything over scale (I often refer to it as 'bombastic') can be seen in every installation she has ever done.  Subtle and nuanced were not in her vocabulary.  Draper was a full on assault of the most decorative kind. 

I am sure this piece will fly off the shelves, especially with so many decorators out their (many of whom I went to school with) pledging their allegiance to the United States of Draper.  While this trinket won't give them any more talent or skill, it will at least help them keep Draper close to their hearts.  And as for Isaac, I can do nothing but commend him for his tongue in cheek salute to one of America's most notable decorators.  

- Ian 

The trellis cartouche above the doors is very similar to
the one seen on the necklace.  Also note the stark
white trim.

One of th  many fountains at the Quitandinha, the
scrolling volutes and the shell motif echo those found
on Mizrahi's design.

The leafy acanthus scroll arms of this wall sconce recall
the scrolling leaf forms seen at the neck of the piece.



The matching earrings shown with a pink dress.
I think it's smart to keep the necklace and earrings
apart.  No one wants to look like a Showgirl.



A Chair by Any Other Name

I had just finished dinner with friends in Santa Monica and we decided to walk off our over-indulgent meal with a trip down the 3rd Street Promenade.  The shops had just closed, so it was window shopping all the way, and that was just fine.  I was feeling fat and didn't want to send myself into a tailspin of emotional instability in Banana Republic. 


The Versailles Domed Chair at Restoration Hardware.
Inspired, but ultimately drab in pickled wood and Burlap.
I do give RH credit for being unique.

We passed in front of Restoration Hardware and one of my companions asked me what sort of chair was in the window.  An innocent question, but for the first time, I really didn't know.  I usually know obscure minutia, but this time I was left out in the cold. 


I had seen this sort of chair dozens of times before, usually in those over the top rooms no one could ever live in, but were nice to visit.  The chair was svelte, with cabriole legs and closed arms.  The back ascended higher than a wing back chair would have, and ended in a dome shape at the top.  Quickly, I said it was a Balloon Chair, and ushered us away to another window.



After I recovered from my shame, I found out I was correct in my assessment based name.  But I also discovered a plethora of other nomenclatures, put forth to confuse anyone who actually wants to find out the name of this flipping chair.  In addition to being dubbed a Balloon Chair, it is also known as a Porter Chair, a Dome Chair, a Canopy Chair and a Hooded Chair.  I'm almost certain there are a number of other terms for the chair, all equally obscure, that will still get you now where when trying to describe or purchase one of these suckers. 

 

Canopy Chairs in the Dining Room
of the Bergdorf Goodman
Restaurant.

As I mentioned, these little numbers have been popping up all over the place.  When Bergdorf Goodman reopened their Restaurant, after a redecoration by Kelly Wearstler, they were used as dining chairs.  While I think that's lovely and dynamaic, it's not terribly convenient to drag one the these things up to a dining table.  The wind resistance alone would require a spotter.

For those interested, the origins of the canopied chair dates back to Ancient Rome.  The wealthy elite would be carried though the streets in what is commonly known as a Sedan Chair, an enclosed portable structure with a bench seat used for transport; powered by men, not horses.  Think of a port-a-potty on rails carried by two strapping guys (one in front, one on back) and you get the idea.  This idea evolved, the Sedans becoming more elaborate, I feel they reached their crescendo in the 18th Century, which is also when they seemed to die off.

A Practical, if plain,
Porter Chair.

As for the name 'Porter Chair', it's derived from the occupation of the chairs original occupant.  As the story goes, this sort of chair would be used by a Porter or Doorman who would be stationed at the Entry or Gatehouse of an Estate (we're going back to the English Renaissance for this one).  The homes were so large that even if there were a doorbell, no one would be able to hear it or get to it in time, hence, the Porter. 

The canopy and sides would keep out the draft while also keeping in whatever heat the Porter was able to generate as he waited for visitors.  Often, there would be a little flip out shelf to hold a lantern.  The original Porter chairs were very understated and simple; they were for the help, after all. 

To compensate for this simplicity, I have taken the liberty of including some not so simple examples of this marvelous, if not hard to pin down, chair.

-  Ian

  

I'm enamored with this style of chair done in Cane.
So very unique.  I don't even mind the orange.



An exotic departure in Bamboo.  So Indochine.



A more English version, with Button Tufting, Nail Head,

Chippendale style legs, and audacious Zebra upholstery. 

I want these.  Now.

For the 21st Century Raja

To follow up on an earlier post about the Duquette jewelry auction happening at Bonham's on Sunset, I am presenting you with a selection of items going under the hammer.  In my modest opinion, these are the 5 most beautiful pieces, ones that would justify cat fights, name calling, and mildly violent physical contact.

What I find wonderful about these is that none of them are ludicrously expensive, considering their pedigree and their material content.  For the faint of heart & pocketbook, who still want a piece of the action, there were some $300.00 braided gold cuffs, and a few $500.00 quartz torsade necklaces, all of which were beautiful and eye-catching.  You can view the full catalog at http://www.bonhams.com/.

I also love that these are pieces you won't be afraid to wear; you don't have to worry about a diamond popping off in an elevator or losing a pave stone in the car.  As well, statement pieces like these could not be more in style right now.  They're all so very editorial, and could be worn with anything; a de la Renta suit by day, Gottex by the pool, Marchesa by night.  Think of them as an investment in pride and envy, but in the best possible way.

- Ian

For a larger view, click on the image.  All photos and descriptions courtesy of Bonham's.




A blue topaz, kunzite, moonstone, colored pearl and vermeil necklace
signed Tony Duquette
length 20in (50.8cm)

Estimate: $1,800 - 2,500 

  




'Symbolizing Adventure and The Eternal Journey', early 1990s

A carved bone, coral, carnelian, silver and vermeil necklace, signed Tony Duquette
with original box
length 19in (48.2cm)

Estimate: $3,000 - 5,000 

  




'Symbolizing Wealth in All Matters, Spiritual Strength, Integrity and Love and the Past, Present and Future Nature of Material Strength', 1990s

An amethyst bead, paua shell and vermeil 'fan leaf panel' collar
with original box
length 23in (58.5cm)

Estimate: $2,500 - 3,500 

  



'Symbolizing Birth, Death and Rebirth', 1990s

An amethyst, peridot, amber, cultured pearl, rose quartz, black coral and vermeil necklace
with original box
length 21 1/2in (54.5cm)

Estimate: $3,000 - 4,000 

 



'Symbolizes the Beauty Found in Nature', 1990s

An amethyst, inlaid shell, quartz, plastic and vermeil necklace
signed Tony Duquette 1995
length 24in (61cm)

Estimate: $1,500 - 2,000 

 

Love for Sale

A favorite piece - The Duchess of Windsor necklace. 

Tourmaline, Rose Quartz, Pearls set in 18kt gold

Hold onto your hot sauce friends, this is an APB for the style conscious.  Coming April 18^th 2011, Bonham’s on Sunset Blvd. will be auctioning a collection of one of a kind jewelry designed by Tony Duquette & associate Hutton Wilkinson; most of it unseen by the public.  So, settle that insurance claim, dip into that 401 k, and send those kids to public school because there are some Baroque Baubles that need a new home.

Duquette has been experiencing a Renaissance for the past 10 years thanks to the Hollywood Regency style popularized by Kelly Wearstler and her ilk. 

While I j’adore his Interiors, his jewelry designs have always made my windows fog up.  What makes his work so incredible is that he was able to translate hallmarks that were usually seen in bombastic Interiors into something as utterly intimate as jewelry. 

Coral, Insects, Shells, Malachite, Cabochons, Baroque pearls, and golden Starbursts combine with influences from India, Russia and Europe to create works that are unmistakably Duquette and divinely decadent. 

A Cocktail Ring of Citrine and Peridot in 18kt Gold.

Cocktail rings that could choke a horse, Maltese Cross brooches that could moor a boat, jeweled collars that should require a consultation with a chiropractor are all part of the repetoire.  The catalog of items has yet to be released, but I've included some of Duquette's greatest hits for your perusal.

If the pieces up for auction are as stunning as the ones I have already seen, this event will require a few cigs and a cuddle afterward.

-Ian

A lethal looking Starburst Brooch of Green & Purple Amethyst with Diamonds

Mandy Moore wearing the Duchess of Windsor necklace

 

 

 

 

Moore in a Collar and Cuff of Cabochon Saphires by Duquette